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Dapper Dan and Dries van Noten address cultural appropriation debate

Fashion designer Dapper Dan speaks at the Business of Fashion Voices summit, in Oxford. “My take on the partnership with Gucci is that I am happy to have a global audience. I feel that if I can be accepted by a brand on this level, that sends a message to people of colour all over the planet that we can finally do this. Because when you look back at brands that have been created by people of colour, none of them have survived. They all crashed.” The strong determine the course that history will take The tailor, whose iconic client list of rappers included LL Cool J, Eric B and Rakim and Salt-N-Pepa, was speaking at the Voices summit curated by Business of Fashion. The designer Dries van Noten, who recently faced a backlash over the use in his knitwear of a traditional Peruvian llama motif, also addressed the issue of appropriation, questioning the framework in which cultural references have become problematic. “There was a huge reaction against that sweater. I was told I was a thief. It does not make sense to me as a citizen of the world that the only culture I am allowed to think about is Belgian folklore. Of course, we must be careful and sensitive. But why is it so different from a Belgian chef using olive oil?” Dries van Noten.

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Alexander McQueen Autumn/Winter 2017 campaign | Photo: Jamie Hawkesworth A trip to Cornwall inspired Sarah Burton ’s latest collection for the house, so it was apt that the campaign be shot among the ragged, surreal landscapes of Iceland. Model Rianne van Rompaey, dressed all in black, stands out among a background of rocky shores and vast sky, mirroring the juxtaposition of romance and dark undertones often present in Burton’s collections. 8. Céline — starring Charlee Fraser and Carly Joyce; shot by Juergen Teller . Céline Autumn/Winter 2017 campaign | Photo: Juergen Teller The Juergen Teller-lensed images embody the sleek minimalism that has attracted the brand such a cult following since Phoebe Philo ’s arrival in 2008. Despite its simplicity, the effortlessly styled looks and pastel-coloured still-life shots will surely end up appearing on countless Instagram feeds and pinned to moodboards. 9. Gucci — starring Achok, Haemin Jeon, Kay Smetsers, Liz Ord, Nick Fortna, Sedona Legge, Victoria Schons; shot by Glen Luchford. Gucci Autumn/Winter 2017 campaign | Photo: Glen Luchford Gucci’s continues to break free from the traditional confines of luxury advertising with its Autumn/Winter 2017 campaign, which utilises an unconventional, humorous approach well placed to spark conversation on social media.

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